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It’s 2020, people do not dress safe or cautiously, gender is no longer just black and white and clothes do not have to represent that either. The idea that masculinity or femininity should be stereotypically a certain way now seems outdated and the fashion industry is in the right to understand it. We define fashion as a reflection of our times, and androgynous fashion is the way
forward. Genderless clothing seems like an obvious step and now that it’s here, it is difficult to imagine a world where we apply rules to what the spectrum of gender could or could not wear.

If we dismantle the social constructs of categories and understand that structural differences then we understand that the definition of a garment has always stemmed from the wearer. In the recent fashion weeks across the globe, we saw the fluidity of tailoring, relaxed silhouettes and refined fits. The collections untethered by the societal dictates, built on the notions of evolving
femininity and masculinity. You saw Bella Hadid closing a show in a suit that resembled true androgyny, bare chested male models wearing short suits, striding perfectly between the two gender worlds. Voicing a loud NO to people who say fluidity is men in skirts and women in pant and saying it is about you wearing your mind.

After independent labels enforcing their genderless agenda and renowned brands infusing these new ideas into their gender-aligned summer and winter collections, we seem to think that operationally this approach is the most flexible, economical and is a huge plus if it helps pave a way for free self-expression in the society.
It is also important to note that today’s consumer is an impulsive, social media influenced, non- conformist buyer. Everybody wants to be original and authentic in their style and it doesn’t matter if you define your consumer on a general demographic scale or let it loose. Consumption patterns are changing constantly with how the world evolves, the demand for gender-neutral fashion is on an all-time high and brands are finding their footing in the spectrum by supporting the need for such clothing.

As we mold ourselves to embrace this gender-neutral aesthetic, we understand that this route is not only opening the doors for designers to get creative but also is enabling and respecting the fluidity of our consumers. A spotlighted trend right now, we hope that this genderless future becomes a norm. Yes, we will have retaliation and face critique against the weakened gender norms but with this movement, we will celebrate androgyny and cherish the spectrum. It is a change that will hopefully cross the borders of fashion magazines and ramps and be ingrained in the daily nuances of style.

– Blog written by Ananya Sharma Shah for Nidhi Embroideries

With the various ins and outs of rulers in India, the only joie di vivre through the tumultuous years was the amalgamation of different cultures establishing their roots in the land early on. From those cultures emerged rural and folk traditions, stories of visual expression that spoke about the lives of those wearing emerald studded robes and gold-threaded garments. Over the years, there have been major shifts in technology, social norms and the way we live our regular lives, what has stayed constant is those stories that still hold relevance with the denim adorning sneaker-wearing trends of today.

Quintessential to the different regions of India, Indian designs and embroidery have long been the colour, glitter and glamour for many. Decade on decade, from handlooms to machine produced exquisiteness, we’ve evolved with the times.

Initially seen as a mark of wealth and status, these embroideries have become the culture markers of specific geographies. The process of tailoring, embellishing and needle working has fostered the development of a varied type of sewing techniques and the decorative possibilities of these techniques have led to the adaptation such age-old crafts into the modern design sensibilities.

Depending on the texture of the fabric, design, type of stitch and the different materials used (metal strips, pearls, beads, sequins etc.) there is plenty of work that serves as an inspiration for designers today. Take a look at the most popular embroidery designs from those times that still give us the ornate feels.

Kashida work (or Aari)

Derived from Persian and Mughal influences, a darner skilled in the handwork is said to have brought it with him from Persia. The Aari Work, uses a special type of crooked needle to make consistent loops where each loop is held by the subsequent one to give it a chain-like appearance. It is said that no single piece of Kashida is done by an individual completely, passing through many skilled hands before it’s declared done.

Kantha Stitch

A versatile yet simple running stitch that can be applied in a multitude of ways, Kantha uses pre-loved fabrics to create beautiful patterns that are worked by hand and cannot be mass-produced in any way which makes no two pieces of Kantha ever look the same. Unlike other embroideries, Kantha work in the olden days was never ordered by the gentry but passed down as dowry from mothers to their daughters.

Bullion Stitch

Extensively used during the time of the Mughals, Bullion stitch came to India from China and is worked by twisting a thread around a needle several times before it touches the cloth. A series of bullion stitches make up for the bullion knot. Also, originally the expertise of hand sewers, bullion knots today hold a special place in the luxury designer bandwagon.

Patchwork

Folk women of native communities in Gujarat used patchwork to make large canopies and tents. For patchwork, various patterns and colours of fabric are cut in different sizes to form a complete piece of work. The interesting thing to note in this type of embroidery is, once completed, the fabric never sags or wrinkles. Today, top designers from the industry are piecing their way into making collections that are based on patchwork. Using luxury silks and fabrics they give sustainability a true definition by making stunning ensembles from what erstwhile was dead stock.

Stone Work

Stonework, back in the time, was stitching precious stones like emeralds, rubies and other semi-precious stones onto elaborate fabrics like brocade, silk and velvet for the members of royal descent. The work evolved with the times and when haute couture paired itself with stonework, ensembles with Swarovski crystals started trending. Across the world today, stonework makes a statement proving all that glitters is not always gold.

– Blog written by Ananya Sharma Shah for Nidhi Embroideries

In a society consumed by materialism, it is often easy to forget the process behind the next big fashion trend. When production and profit are simple and easy, it is difficult to take a stand and make alterations to the way you manufacture. With the needle moving from opulence to conscious, sustainable fashion is no longer tedious, boring and unglamorous, but the new norm.

Sowing the Seeds of Sustainability

The concept of circular fashion is taking centerstage globally, making sustainability a conversation that each brand needs to have. Egged by the rising demand from conscious consumers, last summer, 32 fashion companies including renowned brands of luxury fashion like Chanel, Prada and Ralph Lauren signed a fashion pact to combat greenhouse gases and emphasize on sustainability. When luxury fashion leaders commit time and considerable efforts to work towards being sustainable in the long term, you know the ripple effects are bound to affect the whole industry.
One-fourth of Gabriela Hearst’s collections are made of deadstock – materials that would’ve ended up in a landfill. Gucci launched Equilibrium online, a platform to show the company’s efforts towards sustainability that has received unprecedented publicity on social media with the help of the great The Marketing Heaven team. Of the various campaigns on this platform, ‘I was a Sari’ on upcycling of leftover scrap leather and fabric to produce embroidery with one-off handcrafted designs.

Deepened Consumer Participation

Building sustainability into the narrative of luxury fashion establishes trust and transparency between brands and their customers. It makes the customer an active participant of understanding where their products come from which in turn affects their purchase decisions.
Social signaling which basically means giving a hint/signal about oneself in the social sphere, is also one of the reasons organic, sustainable and ethically grown fashion has become a personal priority for many.

Closer to Home

As suppliers in India, the heart of textile exporting, we work with fabrics and weavers in equal capacities. We believe that equality and mutual respect for both is a necessary foundation for a sustainable work environment. While we are in the nascent stages of being a sustainable organization, we are taking steps to source responsibly, reduce wastage and use in-stock materials for our collections.

The Road Ahead

With the rise of technological innovations, growth of sustainable options and consumers becoming more conscientious, fashion brands need to pivot their processes to ride the green wave.

– Blog written by Ananya Sharma Shah for Nidhi Embroideries